Sunday, August 28, 2005

15 days to go

so here we are with almost two weeks left. 900 pounds of our crap stuffed into 12 boxes has been picked up by the shippers, and will be on its way to jersey in the coming days. we're planning on packing 6 large suitcases with the remainder of the stuff to bring with us.

i must have been high when i bought the airline tickets. we're leaving rome at 7am to paris. then paris at 1:15 to arrive in newark at 3:30. i was so concerned with the longer lay-over in paris (as all the other flights to paris had 40 minute lay-overs) that i didn't even notice the early leave from rome. a 7am flight means that we need to be at the airport at 5am. which means we need to leave our house at 4:30. which means we need to be awake before 4am!!!!! at the end of the day (when we reach our final destination) for us, it will be 9:30pm. but in new jersey they will just be done with lunch... we're in for it that day.

all we've been doing recently is killing time. lunches, giovanni's, dinners, giovanni's, repeat. today we had lunch with stephane, our (ex)swiss guard friend who is visiting rome for a month or so. it was nice to see him again, and talk about our plans for the future. we're planning a bbq on rich's terrace next week with stephen and clare... that will be fun. probably one of, if not the last bbq up there for us this year.

i have decided to make my own wine once we return to the states. i found these kits that don't cost too much - considered you get about 30 bottles in the end of it. cheap, good house wine is another thing i will miss about italy. italian wine in the states costs way too much, or it's terrible. i think it will be another fun adventure to make your wine. i also plan on trying limoncello and grappa... one at a time tho...

aubrey and i are enjoying ourselves talking about our new lives to come, back in america. talking about a new apartment, and decorating it, and just "starting over" again. talking about places we definitely don't want to go to, and places we must hit. how fun it will be to have our friends and family around, dinner parties, and what have you. all with luca! talking about coming back to europe, next year to visit a handful of the cities we never got to in the past 3 years.

my dad says life is a series of "starting overs". for us, it certianly seems that way. in the meantime, we're just finishing up our roman adventure, the last two weeks of it...

Thursday, August 18, 2005

things i will not miss about rome

  • gypsie beggers (kids included)
  • the way one roman enters the room and says " 'na serrrrrrrraaaa" and everyone needs to respond in the same tone
  • the roman rules (no capuccino after 11am, leaving in august, etc.)
  • waving the finger and tisking instead of saying no
  • "don't you have the 60 cents?" (me: "no") "do you have 1 euro?"
  • dinah, the crazy rottwieler who barks everytime ANYONE passes her door
  • words like, "allora", "cio'e'", "quindi", and the infamous roman "ehhhhhhhh...."
  • romans who are afraid to eat anything BUT italian food
  • the diversity of restaurants, or lack thereof
  • that dude with 1/2 a leg who is always asking for a euro or a cigarette
  • italian music
  • the italian "cool" kids in thier sweatpants and huge sunglasses playing soccer in the streets
  • italian post offices
  • italian "lines"

i'm sure there will be others.... wait until until we finally get back to the states, and i do these lists:

  • what i REALLY miss about rome
  • what i wish didn't happen in america
  • what i really, REALLY miss about rome
  • what i wish i did in rome
  • why i wish we never decided to move back here....

like i said, it's not an easy decision. i don't think it will be for a long time. we shall see indeed

today i got an email from a friend who visited us in rome. he had just read the blog and finally it was confirmed that we were in fact heading back to the states. check it out:



now I've got mixed emotions as I'm sure you do too. I'm happy that I'll get
to see you more (selfish reason), I'm happy that Luca will be closer to his extended family, but a little part of me is sad. I'm sad since I know how much you love Rome and what a great place it is. I'm sad for all your Italian friends that will miss you, just like we missed you here for the past three years. I'm sad that you couldn't become an Italian citizen,and for all the things you still wanted to do or see in Italy.



i guess that kind of sums of up the shit that's going on inside my head these days. today we went to the capitoline museums, which we have never done. not when we were here as tourists, or in the past 3 years. it was fun acting like tourists again, and seeing new things in rome. maybe we need to make a list of other things to see here.

and maybe head to scotland....

Monday, August 15, 2005

ferragosto

today is ferragosto. it's a national holiday in italy. and almost a national crime if you stay in your town on this day.

there was a time years ago when you had to leave. nothing was open. no markets, stores, restaurants, shops... nothing. now that the big cities here are starting to open up a little to the mentality of competition, there are more places open. in the 3 years that we've been here we've seen more and more places open in august in general, but it's especially noticeable on the 15th.

i woke up way too early today, for some unknown reason. the family got up around 9 ish. we showered, watched the pope do his thing and went out for a walk. we met up with gerard for lunch at antica taverna. some wine, some food, some grappa. went home, i had a kip and woke up around 730. aubrey made a great dinner of chicken cutlets and potatos. now luca is asleep. aubrey too. and here i am.

i'm still feeling weird about the move. i am excited to be going back. it just seems as if we are killing time now. 28 days left. and we're ready to go. mentally and (almost) physically. even tho more shops and places are open rome is still pretty dead. gerard is getting ready to go to germany. the pomezians have left for thier stateside visit. rich has been in israel for 2 weeks. we're here... just killing time.

i am really looking forward to our vacation in late september at the shore! it will be our first since malta in 2002. and our first real family vacation. we're going back to the same resort where i went with my family since i was like 5 years old. i'm sure my memories of the place will be no match for what really lies ahead, but i think it will be a great little blast from the past. i can't wait to build sandcastles with luca on the beach. and wake up to the oceanfront private balcony with my cup of coffee.

aubrey pointed out last week that it seems everytime we move, we've taken a vacation shortly after. bloomfied... rome, the first time. rome... mailta. back to jersey...wildwood crest. funny.

maybe we can squeeze in a quick weekend in scotland to visit judy before 13 september.

Sunday, August 14, 2005

i've come... to look for america....

had a nice weekend in roma.
saturday big breakfast.
i made cheese omlets for the fam, and shitty coffee

then a nice lunch at gay pizza with gerard luisa and stephanie. i had my fav at that place, fried mozz and ricotta.

then a drink at giovanni's.

then dinner with the pomezians at antica taverna.

today is the day before ferragosto. which means rome is empty of italians.... just tourists... its a little peaceful, but frighteningly empty.

had a lunch with gerard at "the sac" while luca slept. then a few drinks at giovanni's with his cousin. luca met a nice german girl, who he fell in love with and even gave him some toys to keep. we bought some pizza for later, and it's time for another list!

things i am looking forward to living back in the states:

  • 24 hour whatever
  • diner food
  • hibachi grill
  • the family (friends included)
  • playing in the band again (??!?!?!?!?! god help us all !!!!!)
  • new york city
  • getting a new apartment
  • making snow men and snow forts with luca
  • taylor ham
  • bagels
  • burgers
  • feeling comfortable again

i know it's a lame list... i'm going thru a weird period about our decision to move back to the states.... what can i say? 3 years in rome, i've learned a lot. i know it will be fine getting back there, and starting over again, i'm just worried... for no reason, as usual. but i can' t wait to get da fhug back there.

Friday, August 12, 2005

ahhhhh, rrrrrrrome....in all her glory

    some things i will miss about living in rome:
  • getting groceries and talking about life with rino, at his alimentari
  • caffe freddo
  • caffe in general
  • eating outdoors at cheap and excellent restaurants
  • the ease of cell phones
  • nighttime barbeque's on rich's terrace
  • drinks and life at la botticella
  • the sound of motorinos on the street
  • sunday lunch at antica taverna
  • august ... when everyone's at the beach and the streets are empty
  • walking!!!!
  • being stopped on the street every 4 seconds to say hello to someone (with luca)
  • mussels, beer, and pizza at navona notte
  • walking home from work, crossing the bridge into the center, and feeling at home, finally.
  • finding some new alleyway i've never seen before
  • gnocchi thursdays
  • the canon blast at noon
  • mozzarella da bufala
  • walking hand in hand with luca in the piazza navona
  • the fontanellas (free water)
  • norcina at roberto's
  • papa on sundays
  • blue blue skies
  • the 500 year old stair case in our apartment

Wednesday, August 10, 2005

holy shit he's writing again...

ok, im not even going to bother apologizing for not writing. but since everyone has a blog these days, i am feeling more and more compelled to conform myself (or should i say get back into it) i can only hope i will try my best to keep up, instead of doing these 3 times a year "recaps"

anyway... it has been almost a whole 8 months since i've written, and holy shit, a lot has happened.

february 2005
feb 2, first day with bluetooth earpiece for the cell phone. wonderful invention for those of us who live in 500 year old buildings that weren't built with cell phone reception in mind. i have about an inch and 1/2 of space on the table where the cell phone will work. so with the bluetooth, i can walk around and talk and not worry about dropping the call. we have a long day at work doing an interview for dateline. camera problems, re-synching audio, etc... i get home finally at around 10pm and set up the bluetooth. lay down to start a film, and the phone rings. its alfonso. the dude is talking so fast i only made out 3 words. papa. ospedale. ufficio. (pope, hospital, office) i understood right away.

shot up from the bed, threw on some clothes, kissed aubrey and bolted out the door. the pope was in the hospital. this is what we've been working on since i arrived in rome 3 years ago. it was one of those movie moments. the clock is ticking... the nightly news broadcast is creeping up... we're not going to make it. power's on, mic is plugged in, correspondent arrives. ifb in the ear, click. boom - you're live. "that's right, brian, the pope was rushed to gemelli hospital...." we JUST made it....

anyway the pope is in the hospital for about a week. about 45 people from london and new york were here, we were working our asses off, sleeping in the bunker, and just making tv. around the 10th he is released, and all goes back to normal.

aubrey's parents arrive. having a good time. 1 day later, my aunt and uncle arrive. more good times. food, drink, sites, sounds... ah rome in february! then 3 days later my parents arrive. again, more good times, just bigger dinners! all in all it was a great time. everyone had fun, they all went to florence even. stephen had been on vacation in venice since the pope got back to rome, so they sent in a visiting correspondent.

feb 24th
we're working on a story about an exorcism class that the vatican is offering at one of its universities. this class only happens once a week, so we were not alone. bbc, cbs, abc, sky tv, everyone's there shooting b-roll and getting interviews. after our second interview i get a text message from stephen in venice:

"just heard that rai sent a sat truck to gemelli. dont do anything yet but be prepared to get out of there."

not again?!? so i nonchalantly start cleaning up the lights, and breaking down the tripods. 15 minutes later another text: "code red - get on the air!" trying to call no attention to the fact that we know the pope is back in the hospital... i get everyone together - we get in the car, say rushed goodbyes and speed back to the office. we made the today show that time, just by the skin of our teeth.

pope's back in the hospital, 2nd time in a month. the 45 people come back to rome. we do the drill all over again. long nights, lots of live shots, translating, a few cut spots. easter is coming up. will he make it thru? this hospital stay drags on a bit, and in the meantime i start thinking maybe aubrey and luca should head back to the states for a little while. with easter coming up, and the obvious interest - even if the pope makes it thru we won't have a break for at least a couple of weeks. so they buy the tickets and off they go.

all this time, more and more gear is arriving in rome. lists are being made of people to call, more drivers, more runners, tables and chairs are ordered, and its pretty much mass hysteria. the whole experience of it was pretty much a blur, and i curse myself for not keeping a journal during the event, but christ, i was averaging about 3 hours of sleep per night.

easter comes. pope is back at the vatican. we saw a live video hookup during the good friday stations of the cross. easter sunday he came out of the window after mass and tried to speak but couldn't. it was pretty sad watching him, wanting so bad to just say happy easter, and all that came out were scratchy noises.


end of march/beginning of april
a few long days have passed. more prep work, and a sad phone call.

my grandma died. getting a call like that while having lunch - awaiting the death of the pope. they all said they understood that i couldn't go to the funeral. i never called her on her birthday.... i was able to take a day to myself and collect myself... but then it was back to work

a charter flight from NY arrived with about 160 people. engineers, camera crews, producers, correspondents... and TONS, i mean TONS of gear. we spend a few days setting up the stages, getting things ready. for about 2 days people have been gathering in st peters square, since word spread that the pope was not doing well.

april 2nd.
its now close to 930pm, and we finally get permission to have the huge truck full of lighting equipment enter the grounds. i'm walking up the hill, following the truck. the truck parks. cue the distant chanting of the pilgrims below in the square. the driver comes out and says to me in italian, i just heard on the radio that the pope is dead. (we've been hearing rumors about this for about 3 days) no, no, he says, it was from ANSA, the italian wire service. i turn around and see correspondents running to their positions. oh god, it must be true. bells start ringing, people down in the square are clapping, chanting, singing, crying.... the whole place is full of energy.

long days ahead now. the pope is dead. since the beginning of february we were getting closer. when i moved to rome in june of 2002, we would talk about it... when it happens, when he dies, after he dies... 3 years of talk. now it's real. it didnt seem real at all. now its all gotta be past tense. when it happened, when he died, after he died...

more adrenaline. more long days. more people.... there were about 3 million people who came to rome. the line to see the pope's body laid out in st peter's basilica stretched for almost a mile. people stayed up all night, some it took 20 hours to finally pass by the pope's body and snap that one digital picture. this lasted for 9 days. there was a mass each day. at the end was the funeral. i watched some of the funeral from above the square, on our position. i think it hit me particularly hard since i was unable to attend my grandma's funeral. i was pretty moved by the whole thing. the crowds interrupting ratzinger's homily with cheers of giovanni paolo! just the amount of people that were in the streets. the day of the funeral, it took me almost 45 minutes to walk to work. (on a normal day, it takes about 7)

so now. the pope is dead. time to vote in a new one. now i start freaking out, oh god, what if it's a cardinal who i don't have video of, or enough of... where are all the tapes? etc etc. the conclave starts on april 18th. being the video geek that i have become because of the job, i am thrilled that the vatican shows the entrance to the conclave LIVE!!!! not many people seemed to share in my enthusiasm. it doesnt matter. i'm satisfied...

a couple of us walk up to the terrace around 7 pm, waiting for the smoke. then it comes. oh my god its white! no it's black. no it's greyish. no bells. it's definitely black. ok, no pope. thank god... now we can go have dinner and drinks and do it all again tomorrow. that night at the pub we bought a megaphone, and were ordering drinks from outside, and blasting the whole street with different comments. until water was splashed on us from an apartment above, and giovanni confiscated the megaphone...

next day there are two ballots. afternoon is the same deal - black, white, white, black, no bells, wait bells! no those are the normal clock bells to say it's 15 past the hour. definitely black, no pope. 2nd ballot - its WHITE. a little black, but more white... and it keeps coming. where are the bells? wait, some one needs to run from the sistine chapel to tell the bell guy to ring them. so it could take time. then the bells come. habemus papam. we have a pope. i run downstairs to get ready. to pull the tape of the guy they picked. the cardinal comes out and announces in latin, we have a pope. cardinal joseph ratzinger, takes the name benny 16. cue the mood change.

it was like a total anti-climax. all those months led to this? anyway we pressed on, covered the installation mass, the first angelus, the first everything. little by little everyone went back to london or new york, or moscow, or where ever they came from. but aubrey was still in america. and i was still in rome. during this papal fiasco she had decided to send her passport in to get the name changed finally. it was over 3 weeks, and she still hadn't received it. so we decided the best the thing would be for me to come back to the states for a little and when she has the passport we'd all head back together.


may 8, mothers day.
i land in jfk after not seeing my wife or son for almost 2 months. it was great seeing them again. i felt so bad that aubrey didn't get to experience the "pope event" in rome, or luca for that matter. it was a tough call sending them back, but i think in the long run it was the better choice. i was working for at least 18 hrs a day... but i gave her and my mom a good mother's day gift. being there... together.

sadly during my week in america aubrey's uncle passed away. but i was glad we were able to be there. im pretty sure had we been in rome when it happened, we wouldn't have been able to come back just for a few days. it was a tough week, although we spent a lot of time looking back at old pictures and telling stories, and reminiscing about his life. my dad did the funeral service, and he was on, as always.

we got back to rome on the 18th. with aubrey's new passport in hand. 4 1/2 weeks after she sent it in... im expecting a whole new passport, and what is it? a typed message on the back page saying let it be known that the bearer of this passport is now called... no stamp, no seal, nothing. incredible...

around the time we get back we start having discussions about what to do. we're both feeling a little strange being back in rome. aubrey at first was happy to be back to our lives after almost 2 months away. but something wasn't right. and for the first time in my roman life, i am having thoughts about returning, and it's not money related. we go over all possible possibilities and decide the best option for the family is to head back to the states. it wasn't an easy decision by any means, and still isn't. we've been here for 3 years. made friends, made a life, made a family! we've done lots of things that normally wouldn't have been able to do... in rome! we've learned a second language, been introduced to all new ways of life, and mentality, and culture. it's been an amazing ride. and we'll miss it. everyday. we just need to keep what we've learned and experienced in our hearts and live as best we can back in the states.

so that;s where we are now. most of june and july was spent mapping out our plan of attack, what to throw away, what to bring,when do we leave etc etc. aubrey's sister carol and the kids were out for a few days in july with phyliss, carol's mother-in-law. it was great having luca's cousins around again, and they all had a great time together. and of course seeing phyliss in rome, i always love watching first-timers' reactions to this city!

my friend darren who i haven't seen in over 5 years came out the day after carol and co left. again, great to see him, and his reactions, and just generally hanging out and having a good time.

all in all it;s been a pretty eventful year. im satisfied so far. we've got 10 boxes packed and ready to be shipped, and the walls are bare. 30 something days left in rome. and then its' starting over time! once again.